Farewell to the Pilgrim’s Book House, Kathmandu

May 22, 2013 Reviews and tributes buddhism, himalayas, kathmandu, mountain literature, mountain photography, nepal, travel writing 17 Comments

The phrase Aladdin’s cave is often used to describe a place crammed full of interesting objects, and if ever there was a building worthy of the definition it was the Pilgrim’s Book House, Kathmandu. Squeezed between souvenir shops and tourist guest houses was an inauspicious shop front which led into a maze of rooms filled from floor to ceiling with books. Sadly, last week it burned to the ground.

A tribute to Sherpas, the tigers of the snow

May 15, 2013 Reviews and tributes alexander kellas, angtharkay, annapurna, bill tilman, cho oyu, commercial mountaineering, eric shipton, everest, fritz wiessner, gasherbrum, george finch, george mallory, herbert tichy, himalayas, howard somervell, k2, maurice herzog, media sensationalism, mera peak, mountain literature, muztag ata, nanda devi, nanga parbat, pasang dawa lama, sherpas, simone moro, tenzing norgay, ueli steck 17 Comments

This is a post I have been meaning to write for a while. Much has been written by westerners about Sherpas over the last hundred years, but the voice of the Sherpas themselves is rare. I can’t provide it, but I can provide my own perspective of a people who have given me many happy memories, taken me to places I could never have been without them, and put their lives at risk to help me.

The Mynydd Du microadventure

May 8, 2013 Trip reports alastair humphreys, backpacking, black mountains, brecon beacons, britain, camping, grant rawlinson, hill walking, microadventures, mynydd du, wales, wild camping 13 Comments

Perhaps I’ve only just noticed, but all of a sudden people have started using the term microadventure for things that used to be called walks. I used to laugh, but after my trip to the Mynydd Du hills last weekend, I’m going to stick my neck out and say that I have now become a microadventurer.

Everest is not for climbers – you’re joking aren’t you!

May 6, 2013 Opinion and advice cathy o'dowd, commercial mountaineering, ed webster, everest, first ascents, george mallory, guided climbing, history of mountaineering, mountaineering ethics, stephen venables, tibet 5 Comments

There’s nothing like a negative Everest story to trigger a flurry of publishing absurdity. For example, some people say Everest has now become so crowded with commercial expeditions there is no longer any room for real climbers, an argument that can be easily refuted with a single photograph.

How civilised does an expedition base camp have to be?

May 1, 2013 Opinion and advice 7 summits club, 8000m peaks, acclimatisation, alex abramov, altitude junkies, bill tilman, charles bruce, cho oyu, commercial mountaineering, digi comms, elbrus, eric shipton, everest, everest base camp, expedition food, expedition logistics, gasherbrum, jagged globe, kenton cool, noel odell, seven summits 3 Comments

Photographs of members of the Russian 7 Summits Club playing pool at base camp on Everest’s north side will have raised the blood pressure of a few purists who believe such luxuries have no place in mountaineering, but a bit of pampering at base camp has long been a part of expeditions to the 8000m peaks.

All you need to know about the Everest fist fight

April 29, 2013 Humour everest, media sensationalism, old post, sherpas, stephen venables, the guardian, ueli steck

Some of you have been asking for an insightful analysis of the punch up on the Lhotse Face over the weekend. As usual people have been falling over themselves to report the story without waiting for the facts to emerge, and in the Footsteps on the Mountain team we’re not averse to joining the stampede.

Following the Everesters

April 24, 2013 Opinion and advice 8000m peaks, alan arnette, altitude junkies, blogging, commercial mountaineering, digi comms, edita, everest, explorersweb, grant rawlinson, margaret watroba, phil crampton, sherpas, the chomolungma diaries 15 Comments

This time last year I was lying in a tent on the north side of Everest, listening to a deafening wind pound against the nylon beside my head. Every spring a few hundred people seek to share my experience by trying to climb Everest, and thanks to the miracle of modern communications, it’s possible to watch from the sidelines.

Top rock climber accuses sunbathers of cheating

April 17, 2013 Humour bottled oxygen, interviews, mountaineering ethics, rock climbing 8 Comments

This week the Footsteps on the Mountain team caught up with champion rock climber Bill Scheidt, who has completed many first ascents on bold new routes. Bill is known for a very pure style of climbing, and over the years has become an outspoken critic of climbers who employ artificial aids to enable them to complete an ascent. But it’s not just use of pitons and supplementary oxygen that make his blood boil.

Why Tenzing is the greatest Everest climber

April 10, 2013 Opinion and advice apa sherpa, chongba sherpa, earl denman, edmund hillary, eric shipton, everest, first ascents, george mallory, himalayas, history of mountaineering, nepal, reinhold messner, sherpas, tenzing norgay 9 Comments

While George Mallory, Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner and Eric Shipton all deserve their place in the Everest pantheon, if there’s to be an award for the greatest of all Everest climbers, then IMHO it should go to Tenzing Norgay, because he had to work so much harder to achieve his ambition than any of the other climbers.

A winter wonderland above the Bridge of Orchy

April 3, 2013 Trip reports beinn a chreachain, beinn achaladair, beinn an dothaidh, beinn dorain, beinn mhanach, ben lui, black mount, bridge of orchy, britain, duncan ban macintyre, hill walking, munro bagging, munros, rannoch moor, scotland 5 Comments

It might be April and the beginning of spring, but the conditions on Scotland’s hills are still distinctly wintry. I checked the avalanche forecast before spending Easter in the hills above Bridge of Orchy, home of the poet Duncan Ban MacIntyre, famous for composing an Ode to Trousers.