To climb or not to climb? Those last 50 metres

July 1, 2015 Opinion and advice aconcagua, andy henderson, augusto ortega, commercial mountaineering, edward fitzgerald, everest, gasherbrum, history of mountaineering, martin conway, mick burke, seven summits 1 Comment

To climb or not to climb? Those last 50 metres

When you’ve put so much time, money and physical commitment into a climb, it’s never easy to turn around just fifty metres from the top. Here are some stories from Aconcagua which help to shed light on when that decision should be made.

First ascent of Aconcagua: a story of self-inflicted altitude sickness

February 27, 2013 History aconcagua, altitude sickness, andes, argentina, chimborazo, edward fitzgerald, edward whymper, first ascents, history of mountaineering, matthias zurbriggen, mountain literature, seven summits 5 Comments

First ascent of Aconcagua: a story of self-inflicted altitude sickness

When the Swiss guide Matthias Zurbriggen stood on the highest point in South America in 1897, as far as anyone knew it was the highest place man had ever been, but he stood there alone. His expedition leader Edward Fitzgerald had been left behind with altitude sickness at 6000m.