In memoriam: Dave Fowler, West Coast mountain guide

August 23, 2023 Reviews and tributes aonach eagach, climbing fatalities, cuillin ridge, dave fowler, glen coe, mountain guides, obituaries, scotland, west coast mountain guides 18 Comments

It was with great shock and sadness that I learned of the death of Dave Fowler on Aonach Eagach earlier this month. Dave guided Edita and me on the Cuillin in 2020. He was a great character, ever talkative and cheerful, and extremely careful as a guide.

The Dubh Slabs: the most iconic scramble in the British Isles

July 26, 2023 Trip reports boat trips, bothy nights, britain, cicerone guides, cuillin ridge, danny macaskill, hill walking, isle of skye, karl smith, munros, scotland, sgurr dubh mor 2 Comments

We decided to continue our Cuillin reconnaissance. But what to reconnoitre? Our guide Karl suggested climbing the Dubh Slabs and staying overnight at Camasunary. I’d known about the Slabs for years, but never imagined I would ever climb them myself

Essential Skye reading: The Black Ridge by Simon Ingram

July 12, 2023 Reviews and tributes alexander nicolson, britain, cuillin ridge, history of mountaineering, isle of skye, john mackenzie, mountain literature, norman collie, scotland, simon ingram 6 Comments

I’m only just starting to delve into the literature of the Black Cuillin, but I’ll be surprised if I come across a better book than this one. Erudite and poetic, yet marvellously accessible in places, this is simply a great book by a great writer.

The four summits of Sgurr a Mhadaidh: another Cuillin reconnaissance

July 5, 2023 Trip reports britain, cicerone guides, cuillin ridge, dave fowler, hill walking, isle of skye, karl smith, munros, scotland, sgurr a mhadaidh, west coast mountain guides 5 Comments

It was time for another Cuillin reconnaissance, and there was one section of tricky scrambling that we hadn’t done: an unavoidable obstacle in the form of the four summits of Sgurr a Mhadaidh. I was keen to complete this section before committing to a full traverse of the ridge.

How to survive a wet and wintry week in Glen Coe, Scotland

January 11, 2023 Trip reports aonach eagach, britain, chris townsend, glen coe, hill walking, munros, scotland 3 Comments

For many years the idea of a week in Scotland at the end of December was far from my thoughts. There are only a few hours of daylight, a high chance of rain every day, howling winds and thick mist over the hills. But it’s still possible to enjoy yourself in these circumstances.

One and a half ascents of Ben Hope, Scotland’s most northerly Munro

January 26, 2022 Trip reports arkle, ben hope, ben klibreck, britain, cameron mcneish, foinaven, hamish brown, hill walking, munros, north coast 500, scotland 6 Comments

Sir Hugh Munro said of Ben Hope that he didn’t know any mountain of its height which could be climbed with less exertion. Surely a quick ascent on Christmas Day would be just the thing before our Christmas turkey? Ben Hope had other ideas.

The Scottish coastline and the secret village across the loch

January 12, 2022 Trip reports britain, scotland, scottish highlands 8 Comments

I’d never previously considered the far north of Scotland as a Christmas and New Year holiday destination. According to the daylight indicator on my Garmin watch, the sun rises at 9.07am on the summit of Ben Hope, Scotland’s most northerly

Review: The Farthest Shore by Alex Roddie – hiking the Cape Wrath Trail

November 12, 2021 Reviews and tributes alex roddie, cape wrath trail, hill walking, long-distance trails, mountain literature, nature writing, scotland, scottish highlands, travel writing 1 Comment

Back in September my editor Alex Roddie was launching his own book The Farthest Shore, about his winter hike of the Cape Wrath Trail in north-west Scotland, at the Highland Bookshop in Fort William. I attended the launch and then read the book.

The Ben Lawers Five: peak-bagging perfection

November 3, 2021 Trip reports an stuc, ben lawers, britain, hill walking, munro bagging, munros, peak bagging, scotland, scrambling 2 Comments

You’ve heard of the Famous Five and the Jackson Five, and you may even remember the Dave Clark Five, but if you’ve never heard of the Ben Lawers Five then you’re missing out – it’s one of the great days out for Munro baggers.

The weirdness of a Highland heatwave: 3 strange incidents on Beinn Liath Mhor

September 15, 2021 Trip reports beinn liath mhor, britain, dehydration, glen carron, hill walking, munros, scotland, scottish highlands 5 Comments

Edita stood atop a pile of rocks, waving her trekking pole frantically in celebration. But I was in no position to celebrate. Between us lay about 100m of unspeakable, ankle-twisting boulder field. But it was the summit, and in a